Bivouacking guidelines

Climbers are permitted to bivouac on long routes that cannot be completed in one day or which require an early start for safety reasons. Some restrictions apply and a backcountry camping permit is required.

Camping regulations and permits are explained in the Backcountry Guide.

Climbers wishing to bivouac must purchase a backcountry camping permit by calling 780-852-6177. Bivouac permits cannot be booked online.

Bivouac guidelines

• The bivouac site must be as close to the start of the climbing route as possible. Bivouacs are not intended to be used as a base camp.
• The bivouac site must be on non-vegetated areas, in the alpine zone.
• Two night maximum in any location except the Columbia Icefield.
• The maximum group size is six persons.
• Fires are not allowed. Gas stove use only.
• All litter must be packed out.
• Rock wind breaks must be completely dismantled before departure.
• Solid human waste must be deposited in a small excavated hole with rocks placed on top. Burn toilet paper.
• Bivouacking is not permitted within 1 km of designated campgrounds, Alpine Club of Canada huts, operations cabins or backcountry lodges.
• The bivouac must be removed when the climb is completed.

Routes where bivouacs are not permitted

• Mount Athabasca – all routes (use Columbia Icefield or Wilcox campgrounds)
• Mount Edith Cavell – East and West ridges
• Pyramid Mountain 
• Mount Fryatt – all routes except the West Ridge (use Sydney Vallance (Fryatt) Hut or Headwall Campground)
• Mount Colin – all routes (use Colin Hut)
• The Ramparts – all routes (use Wates-Gibson Hut or Surprise Point Campground)
• Eremite Valley – all routes (use Wates-Gibson Hut)
• Mount Andromeda – all routes except Andromeda Strain (use Columbia Icefield or Wilcox campgrounds)