A climber's descent guide to Mount Sir Donald

Station 8-12: Leave the ridge and rappel down the W face at 25m intervals, station to station. The stations are offset to reduce rockfall exposure when pulling the rope. Station 13 is on the climbers' left and sometimes difficult to see.

Station 13: Trend climbers left, rappelling towards scree at the base of a narrow gully in the slab.

Scramble down easy scree and ledges to rock slab/snow at the base of the dihedral.

Station 14-15: Rappel two more stations or down-climb (4th class) a combination of rock slab and snow to easy scree slopes and the trail that cuts across the scree and snow-patches on the approach to the Uto-Sir Donald Col.

Mt Sir Donald can be summited in a day from the trailhead, or parties may wish to bivy.

The trailhead for Mt. Sir Donald is located at the end of the Illecillewaet Campground road, approximately 5km west of Rogers Pass. Follow the Sir Donald Trail up into the basin below the Vaux Glacier. Once in the basin, climbers can access the lower bivy site by crossing the Vaux creek above the waterfall, travelling around the base of the steep moraine and following a trail to the lower bivy. Climbers wishing to travel directly to the Uto-Sir Donald Col (also the high bivy site) follow the crest of the moraine to a short gully on the left of the trail leading across the slopes below the west face of Sir Donald to gain the col.

Both bivy sites are equipped with food storage lockers (pack out all garbage!) and green-throne style privies. A Wilderness Pass is required to camp in the backcountry and can be acquired at the Rogers Pass Discovery Center or the Illecillewaet Kiosk.

In choosing your equipment consider the following:

• 50 meter+ rope is required for the rappels
• Cell phone– Telus network only. Reception is good along the route, may be poor from the basin below
• If snow remains on the slopes below the Uto– Sir Donald col consider bringing an ice axe ; slopes are steep and can be very hard and icy. In addition, if snow remains on the summit by-pass consider bringing an ice axe and crampons, or descend via the NW ridge from the summit.
• Bring enough water for a long day. There are no water sources above the low bivy site.
• If deciding to store trekking poles while climbing, note that the rappel route does not take you back to the Uto-Sir Donald col
• Bring extra warm, insulating clothing. It is not uncommon for parties to spend the night on the route due to changing weather or underestimating the route.

1. Leave a detailed trip plan with a reliable person. Include where you are going, expected return, vehicle description, plate number and location where parked. A Voluntary Safety Registration service is available at the Rogers Pass Discovery Center.
2. Start early. Allow yourself the best chance to summit and descend before afternoon thundershowers.
3. Assess your progress. To safely and successfully summit, climbers must move quickly and efficiently. If you do not feel comfortable climbing the first few pitches from the col without a belay, consider changing objectives. Consider the southwest ridge of Mt Uto to gain experience on an excellent, but less demanding, route.
4. Turn-back time. Turn back at a set time regardless of whether or not you have made it to the summit.
5. Mountain weather changes quickly. No matter what the forecast says, always take a backpack with lightweight protective clothing.
6. It’s a matter of perspective. Take advantage of opportunities to study your climb from a distance where you will see more of your route. From the highway, take a good look at the summit. If snow remains on the face below, the Summit By-pass option is not recommended on the descent.
7. Looking back. As you climb up, note where the rappel anchors are and make a conscious effort to look back and memorize landmarks for the way down. In particular, on the way up note where you pass the first station on the ridge. On your descent, this will be the station where you change direction and begin rappelling down the west face.
8. Lightning. Lightning storms are most common on warm afternoons. If you hear an approaching thunderstorm, descend immediately to the safety of lower elevations. If caught in an exposed position: pick a spot away from any dangerous drop, crouch down so your head is not raised above the surrounding terrain, sit on your pack at a distance from any metal belongings, keep your feet together, and try not to touch the ground with any other parts of your body. Do not shelter under overhanging rocks or caves.
9. Rockfall. One of the leading causes of accidents is human-generated rockfall. Be aware of other parties on the route, while ascending and descending. Wait until other parties are no longer directly under/above you. Travel more slowly on descent to avoid causing rockfall. If you dislodge a rock, yell “rock” to people below so they have a chance to move out of the way. Wear a helmet!
10. Rappelling is a skill. There have been accidents on Sir Donald that resulted from unsafe rappel practices. There are things you can do to make it safer: Use a personal prussic backup. Tie knots at the end of the ropes. Double check that your harness and rappel device are properly attached before committing to them. Check the rope below; is it hung up on anything off to the side? If so, pull it back up and throw it again.

Out Overnight

If your party is detained, you should be prepared to spend at least one night out. Carry spare clothing and high-energy food. If someone is injured, focus most of your resources on conserving their warmth and energy until help arrives.

Accidents

If a serious accident occurs, respond with care – avoid rushing.

• Stabilize the injured persons. Take measures to protect them from further danger. Provide them with shelter.
• If they require evacuation, call the emergency numbers below or send someone for help. Ideally, leave someone at the scene to care for the patient.
• Ensure the reporting person has all the information including the exact location of the patient, nature of the injuries, and time of the accident.