Wilderness canoeing

Starting Point: Take Portage Q (0.4 km) from the Big Dam Lake parking lot. 

This is the best route for inexperienced canoeists, or the first time visitor who wants a two or three-day outing.

After years of experience, this route may well remain your favourite. Each lake is unique, but Big Dam Lake is the most striking. Joined in the middle by a narrow passage, it is really two water bodies in one. The southeast portion has clear water fed by springs and runoff, while the northwest portion is filled with dark red-brown water borne by a large brook, which flows through a bog. All along the route you’ll notice the tips of old logs floating just above the surface. Sphagnum moss, sundew and cranberries now grow on logs, which were lost while being driven downstream many years ago. The last logging drive was in the mid-1950s; the first was about a century ago.

While this trip can be done in two days, plan on taking three to enjoy it best. Spend a night on Frozen Ocean Lake and then one on Kejimkujik Lake. If you start late, stay at Big Dam Lake the first night and at Frozen Ocean the next.

Note: Except for Kejimkujik Lake, the lakes are generally small and are usually not too windy during the day. The stillwaters and the flowing part of the river are easy canoeing. The seven portages are of short to moderate length (130m to 800m) and, on a multi-day trip, the going is easy.

Starting Point: Begin and end at Jakes Landing, or at the Eel Weir below Kejimkujik Lake at George Lake.

The shoreline and islands of Kejimkujik Lake, and the rivers leading into it, can be explored without portaging.

The mood of the big lake changes constantly — from misty mornings through bright, windy afternoons, to peaceful sunsets.

The islands vary from tiny sand spits to large forested islands, each with its own personality. Some have small hidden beaches; others may harbour a doe and her fawn. The rivers leading from the lake are excellent for viewing beaver and deer; the open lake is good for spotting loons, gulls, terns, and the occasional osprey.

Starting Point: Cross Kejimkujik Lake from Jakes Landing, or start from the Eel Weir below George Lake. Travel from Minards Bay to take the Big Hardwood Carry (Portage E), or Portage A.

Here, you will experience wilderness canoeing at its best. Fewer people travel this route because longer portages are necessary than in other areas. Many old-timers favour this part of Keji, whose landscape of windswept stands of red and white pine is reminiscent of the Canadian Shield. This system of a dozen lakes is connected by thirteen portages.

Some of the lakes are spring-fed and clear, others are fed by dark brown streams flowing through bogs. As their name implies, the Silver Lakes are among the clearest in the region. As you paddle, you can see the rocks and plants, metres below on the bottom.

Note: You should be well prepared to portage, and anticipate stiff westerly winds on both Peskowesk and Peskawa lakes in mid-day. Morning travel is advised.